Versatex Trimboard

Detail - Notched Fascia

2011-12-08T12:15:00.001-08:00

Best Practice to Control Expansion and Contraction at Board Joints

2011-12-08T12:07:00.001-08:00

Method #1: Glue the Joints Secure (High Traffic Areas)

Ship lap or 45-degree miter cut the boards at the joint, and glue the boards together with VERSATEX Weld-on #705 or another acceptable PVC cement.
When possible, apply construction adhesive to back side of boards. Liquid Nail Sub Floor Adhesives or Heavy Duty Construction adhesive works well when attaching a VERSATEX fascia board to a sub fascia.
Double fasten on both sides of joint (remember screws work best). Use proper amount of fasteners based on width of boards.
If necessary, allow for movement at the ends of the boards or at inconspicuous joints.

Method #2: Leaving an Expansion Joint

Based on temperature at time of installation (see chart below) create a gap between boards.
Follow proper fastening methods previously outlined.
Place UV resistant acrylic based or polymer based sealant in joint between boards (NPC Solar Seal #900 or equal is recommended).
Never completely fill joint with sealant. Leave room to compensate for joint closure.

VERSATEX Expands VERSAWRAP Column System

2011-12-05T11:24:00.000-08:00

VERSATEX Expands VERSAWRAP Column System

BEST PRACTICES OF TYPICAL CONSTRUCTION DETAIL

2011-12-02T08:16:00.001-08:00

Fabricated Top Rail (Structural)

Click here to download a PDF version.

Everything Moves

2011-12-01T11:22:00.000-08:00

Everything Moves

I’ve heard carpenters and trim installation contractors complain that PVC trim expands and contracts too much. My comment to them is: Yes, cellular PVC trim does move, but so do all other exterior building products, and many of them just as much as, if not more than, cellular PVC.

A Note from the Publisher:

WARNING: POTENTIAL CONFLICT OF INTEREST!!

If you are sensitive about articles that seem to favor a particular manufacturer, then DON’T read this one!! It’s written by the President of Versatex! But after years of experience, I’ve found that some manufacturers know more about their products than anyone else; if a carpenter wants to learn the best way to install a product, sometimes the best source of information is the manufacturer. In the future, look for more carefully-screened articles from manufacturers.

The fact is, movement can be caused by different forces of nature. For wood, wood composites, and fiber cement, movement is all about the moisture content of the product. Wood expands and contracts with changes in the surrounding humidity and, to a lesser degree, the temperature. More humid air will cause wood to expand, while drier air will cause wood to contract.

Wood does not move in all directions equally. In fact, the greatest movement will always be across the grain. If you read the installation instructions for fiber cement, or composite wood siding and trims, you’ll see the manufacturers recommend gapping between boards. Why would you need to gap something unless it’s going to move?

Coefficient of Thermal Expansion

For building products made from cellular PVC, aluminum, steel, or other polymer-based materials, it’s all about the temperature at the time of installation compared to the temperature swings the product will experience throughout the year.

You need to learn how to deal with this phenomenon, and I’d like to tell you how without getting too deep in the weeds.

First of all, let’s discuss product movement. Just about every material—be it a natural resource, or man-made product—has a coefficient of thermal expansion. Wow! Those are some big technical words. So, what does it mean?

The coefficient of thermal expansion describes how the size of an object changes with a change in temperature. Specifically, it measures the fractional change in size per degree change in temperature at a constant pressure.

There are several types of thermal coefficients: volumetric, area, and linear. Which one is used depends on the particular application, and which dimensions are considered important or critical to the material. For solids, like cellular PVC, one might only be concerned with the change along a length, or over some area. Some common coefficients of thermal expansion for some standard building product materials are:

For cellular PVC trim, as well as most exterior building products, the focus is on linear movement, since movement along the product’s length is what needs to be controlled—especially where there are long runs of trim. If your cellular PVC trim is going to move, it will be most noticeable in the fascia, frieze, or rake boards on a house.

Determining Amount of Movement

Before getting into how to best control movement, let’s look at how to determine the amount of movement for a given set of conditions. Let’s say we’re installing cellular PVC trim when the outside temperature is 50° F. The boards are 18 feet long, and the house is in Maryland, where the temperature can reach 100° F.

To determine the maximum amount of linear movement, we need the coefficient of linear thermal expansion for cellular PVC, which is 0.000032 in/in-F, the length of the board in inches (216), and the maximum temperature swing the product will be exposed to during the year—in this case, 50° F. The formula to determine movement is as follows:

The Change in Product Length (unrestricted) = The coefficient of linear thermal expansion for cellular PVC x the length of the trim x the maximum change in temperature or (Temperature at time of installation – Maximum Temperature product can reach on any day during the summer).

Δ Length = 0.000032 in/in-F x 216 in x (100° F – 50° F)

Δ Length = 0.3456” (unrestricted) or 0.1728” (when properly nailed) which is between 5/32 in. and 3/16 in.

When I say “properly nailed,” I’m not talking about an 18 gauge or even a 16 gauge trim nail. We recommend an 8d, 12 gauge trim nail.

Now, you’re probably saying: I can’t get 8d, 12 gauge nails that I can gun. Yes, you can. Swan Secure (now part of Simpson Strong-Tie) makes such a nail that is branded their“TRIfecta” nail. These nails come in a strip and are collated, so there is no problem gunning the trim to the framing members of the home.

Further movement can be reduced by using an adhesive in combination with the fasteners. For instance, gluing the cellular PVC fascia board to the sub-fascia with Liquid Nails sub-floor or heavy duty construction adhesive can reduce the board from expanding or contracting.

Best Installation Practices

Here are some “best installation practices,” given to us by contractors and remodelers with years of experience putting up long runs of cellular PVC trim (i.e. fascia, rakes, frieze boards):

Screws restrict movement more than nails
If you can bend the fasteners you plan to use to secure your trim between two fingers, they are too thin.
If practical, you can further restrict movement on long runs by reducing the on-center fastener spacing to 12 in. A good example here is a fascia board where there is a wooden sub-fascia allowing a tighter on-center fastener spacing.

Shiplap joints offer a superior joint to scarf or miter cut joints. They increase the adhesive surface area while also aligning the face of the boards, thereby preventing any offset.

Allow the cellular PVC trim to acclimate to the outside temperature before installing. If possible, install any long runs on a house when the outside temperature, and the temperature of the cellular PVC trimboard, is between 60° and 65° F.
Double-fasten on both sides of any board-to-board joint using the recommended number of fasteners based upon the width of the board (see image, right).
Pick inconspicuous spots away from sight lines for expansion joints that will compensate for any movement in the cellular PVC trim.
Southern exposures, or areas where the product is in direct sunlight, can result in slightly greater product movement due to the heat gain potential for the trim in these areas.

So, there you have it. Everything you wanted to know about why cellular PVC trim moves, but were afraid to ask. I hope the information and recommendations provided here help you with your cellular PVC trim applications, thereby making installation easier, and providing a finished project that meets or exceeds the homeowners’ expectations.

• • •

AUTHOR BIO

John Pace has more than 20 years of experience in the design, development, production and installation of rigid and cellular vinyl building products for residential and light commercial applications. He is a founder of Wolfpac Technologies, Inc., an extruder of cellular PVC sheet and board materials that has been serving the building products industry since 2003. He is also the President and Chief Operating Officer of VERSATEX Trimboard, a subsidiary of Wolfpac Technologies, Inc.

While many companies have recently implemented environmentally responsible strategies, John has been a driving force in the implementation of green practices for decades. The company was recently awarded the Green Seal of Approval from the NAHB for meeting the requirements of certain mandated practices specified in the National Green Building Standard.

John regularly collaborates with customers and designers in the field, and maintains strong associations with the Vinyl Siding Institute, the Moulding & Millwork Producers Association, the National Wholesale Lumber Association and the National Coil Coaters Association.

John holds a BS in Civil Engineering from Lehigh University, as well as a Professional Engineers License.

Versatex new website

2011-12-01T11:17:00.001-08:00

Versatex.com

Versatex has recently launched a redesigned versatex.com. We loved our last site but thought it was time to freshen the look and make things more functional for the user. Versatex.com has new graphics on the home page that are reminiscent of the large dealer brochure. We have also added a search box to help you find things more easily and a new, improved “where to buy” section. Go to versatex.com to check out the new website!

PVC makes the grade

2011-12-01T11:03:00.000-08:00

PVC makes the grade

VERSATEX Joins With Coastal Forest Products, Continues Distribution Expansion

2011-12-01T10:57:00.000-08:00

VERSATEX Joins With Coastal Forest Products, Continues Distribution Expansion

Versatex expands one-piece column cladding | Home Channel News

2011-12-01T10:43:00.000-08:00

Versatex expands one-piece column cladding | Home Channel News

VERSATEX Expands VERSAWRAP Column System With New 4"x 6" Column Wrap

2011-12-01T09:41:00.000-08:00

Offering builders a fresh set of options in structural column treatment, VERSATEX^® Trimboard has introduced a new 4"x 6" version of its labor-saving, one-piece VERSAWRAP PVC column cladding system.

VERSAWRAP minimizes field cutting, eliminates mitering and increases curb appeal by ensuring perfectly aligned corners on every column. The 4"x 6" wrap complements the innovative 4"x 4", 6"x 6" and 8"x 8" sizes that have been available from VERSATEX distributors across the U.S.

Formed from the same high-quality, matte-finished PVC that distinguishes all VERSATEX products, VERSAWRAP is easier to install than old-style, two-piece column cladding. VERSAWRAP kits feature friction-fit closures for tight, secure, professional-looking finishing of rough-sawn structural posts.

“The contracting community has always been enthusiastic about products that speed up the process and add value to the finished structure,” says Rick Kapres, VERSATEX vice president of sales. “Knowing that, we've still been surprised at the rising demand for VERSAWRAP.”

Installing Column Base Dressing

2011-12-01T09:27:00.003-08:00

Column Base Trim Options

Porch Ceiling Application

2011-12-01T09:27:00.001-08:00

When installing long end-to-end runs of beadboard or beaded sheets, work in a decorative expansion joint. Rout a 1/2"x1/2" pocket along both edges of a 5/8"x3" trim piece, creating an upside down 'T' and use it to cover the space between panel ends.

Garage Door Applications

2011-12-01T09:26:00.000-08:00

Garage Doors

There are plenty of companies that take PVC sheet and create super-low maintenance Carriage Style Door garage doors, which have the same incredible attributes as all PVC trim products – they won't split, warp, twist or rot. And, although they do not require painting, they will accept high quality paints, which can last 4-5 times longer than on wood.

Curved Garage Door Trim

Remember that the trim can go right to the concrete or the ground. Miter the edges and glue. Curved tops and deep inside trim can be heat bent or cut out of sheet goods.

Factory Stealth Garage Door Jamb

Versatex has developed a garage door jamb for just about any opening, with a factory folded, one-piece corner. The width of the face is optional, and can be ordered with or without the stealth siding receiver pocket. The depth of the corner trim is optional as well. As with all Versatex products, this corner can come in direct contact with concrete floor, or even installed below grade level.

Picture Framing PVC trim Material

2011-12-01T09:25:00.000-08:00

If you plan to picture frame PVC trim material, miter cut the boards bonding the miter corner with a PVC adhesive such as Weld-On 705 white. Secure the corner with pocket screws from behind and fasteners to the frame of the structure, as you would any wood trim.

Hotshot painting tips

2011-12-01T09:24:00.000-08:00

Painting PVC trim is a lot different than painting wood, except that PVC material will not absorb moisture and paints will adhere better and for a much longer time. High quality paint can last 4-5 times longer on PVC trim than wood, but paint takes much longer to cure on PVC than wood.

Keep in mind that since PVC trims can attract a static charge, the trim will attract dust and dirt. Follow all the instructions typical for any quality paint job – the surface should be free of dirt and any surface contaminants.

Use a 100% acrylic latex or acrylic latex with urethane additive for superior coating, durability and flexibility.

Only light to medium colored paints with a light reflective value (LRV) of 55 units or greater should be used over PVC trims. Dark paints, without Heat Reflective Paint Technology cause unwanted heat buildup and could distort the trim.

Drying Times
To the touch: 1 hour
To handle: 4 hours
To recoat: 24 hours
To the full cure: 30 days

PVC trim's bright white looks great right from the factory, so in situations where the trim is going to be white, consider not painting at all.

Heat Reflective Paint Technology

2011-12-01T09:23:00.001-08:00

There is a limit to how dark of an acrylic latex paint you can apply to any cellular PVC trim, due to the amount of heat absorbed relative to the heat distortion temperature of the product. Paint colors are limited to pastels with a Light Reflective Value (LRV) of 55 units and greater. Most recently, some paint companies have introduced heat reflective paint technology for vinyl based products. Sherwin Williams, AquaSurTech Coating, and Blue River Coatings are two paint companies that have taken the lead in providing heat reflective paint. Consult your local paint representative or pre-finisher for recommended heat reflective paint colors compatible with PVC trim. Be sure these colors have an equivalent LRV of 55 units or greater.

Corner butt joints and mitered edges

2011-12-01T09:22:00.002-08:00

How to install Stealth Corners

2011-12-01T09:22:00.000-08:00

Install siding in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Before installing your Stealth Corner, be sure the corner of the house is properly prepared to accept it. The corner of the building should be square, true and plumb and covered with some form of house wrap. Flash the corner with aluminum trim coil or asphalt felt. The flashing should have two 10” legs and be bent at a 90° angle. Cover the entire corner by lapping the top piece over the bottom piece. The flashing should extend 4” to 6” beyond the outside edges of the corner.
Before installing the corner, run a bead of sealant down the back side of both edges just outside the pocket. The purpose of this sealant bead is to provide a positive seal, as well as a dam which will prevent water or wind driven moisture from getting behind the corner.
Fasten the corner the same way you would a standard corner, being sure not to nail through the overhang that conceals your siding. Although this overhang piece is ¼” thick, it may break if struck with a hammer. Place the top of the Stealth corner 1/8” from the underside of the eave. Use stainless steel fasteners designed for wood trim and siding. Fasteners with thin shanks, blunt points, and full round heads are preferred. The fastener must be long enough to penetrate the substrate a minimum of 1 1/2”.
Place nails a maximum of 16” on center.

How to Install Stealth Window Surrounds

2011-12-01T09:19:00.000-08:00

Before installing your Stealth Window Trim, be sure the window area is properly prepared to accept it. The window should be installed square, true and plumb with the area where the window is to be installed and covered with house wrap. Flash the window opening in accordance with AAMA Method A-1. Apply a large bead of sealant around the window's rough opening. Insert the window into the opening pressing the flanges into the bead of sealant.
Once in place, cover the entire nail flange of the window with a rubberized butyl flashing (i.e. Grace Vycor or equal). The flashing should extend 4” to 6” from the frame of the window. Apply the flashing to the bottom of the window first, then to the jambs and, finally, across the head of the window overlapping the flashing at the four corners. At the window header, have the flashing fold over and onto the top of the window. This will keep stray rainwater from getting behind the window.
Typical window nailing flanges are approximately 1/8” thick creating an irregular surface for the casing boards or window trim making the 1/8” x 3/16” nail flange reveal ideal for this condition.
Having measured the window, miter cut the Stealth Window Trim to create a picture frame look with the trim pieces. Glue using a cement or Fill n’ Fasten and pocket screw the miters to create the window surround. We recommend using a Historic Sill trim at the base of the window surround. Before installing the Stealth Window Surround, run a bead of sealant down the back edge just outside the pocket. The purpose of this sealant bead is to provide a positive seal of the trim to the wall of the house, as well as a dam which will prevent water or wind driven moisture from working its way behind the trim.
Nail the Stealth Window Surround the same way you would standard trim, being sure not to nail through the overhang that conceals your siding. Although this overhang piece is 1/4” thick, it may break if struck with a hammer. Use stainless steel fasteners designed for wood trim and siding. Fasteners with thin shanks, blunt points, and full round heads are preferred. The fastener must be long enough to penetrate the substrate a minimum of 1 1/2”.
Place nails a maximum of 16” on center.
At the window header, bend a piece of light gage aluminum into a “J” or drip edge and place it on the trim before installing the siding.
Install the siding around the perimeter of the window in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation guidelines.

Click here to check out some PVC Stealth window surrounds.

Keys to Successful Moulding or Milling of Cellular PVC Trim

2011-12-01T09:18:00.000-08:00

RPM’s of Spindles

Varies with moulder. We recommend spindle speeds of 8,000 RPM’s or greater. We have found that the higher the spindle RPM the smoother the surface of the milled pvc board. Use equipment with an RPM of 6,000 which is satisfactory but not optimum.

Feed Rate

Weinig specifies a feed rate of approximately 45 FPM (15m/min). Recommended feed rates between 40 and 60 FPM depending on material thickness, profile being cut and tooling wear. Too fast a feed rate will lead to surface chatter.

Hold Down

It is important the board be held in place during the milling or moulding to prevent or minimize material vibration. Vibration will lead to chatter lines across the face of the moulding profile produced.

Tooling Wear

It is important to maintain sharp tooling. Worn tooling or tooling with chips in the insert will create a ripping or chatter look in the core of the cellular PVC board. This can also lead to softening or gumming of the core due to heat build-up.

Tooling Insert Steel

Most mill shops use high speed tool steel inserts. However, carbide steel can also be used for tooling inserts.

Dust Extraction

Probably one of the most critical components associated with the proper milling and moulding of PVC trim. It is very important that all milling and moulding equipment have an optimum dust extraction and collection system. If you allow the dust and small PVC chips to build up around the tooling inserts, they will generate excessive heat thus creating gumming or softening of the PVC core.

Tooling Angle

Recommended rake angle is 25 degrees. Set your rake angle on a Weinig grinder to 25 degrees when grinding inserts. For a steeper angle try it in the range of 10 to 15 degree, the surface finish becomes a little coarser. Using a steep rake angle on the insert is much like using a dull blade when placed in contact with the product being milled. This is because the sharpest part of the tool is not in contact with the PVC piece being milled. As a result, if the angle is too steep you are basically cutting with a dull knife which can lead to tearing and ripping at the core of the product. This tearing and ripping created through the use of a dull knife will also generate excessive frictional heat which can cause a gumming or softening of the PVC core.

Milling Bit

Use a single edge upcut spiral bit which is ideal for plastic when milling PVC trim. Use a bit that pulls the shaving out rather than down. This removes the shavings from the cut, reduces heat build up at the point of the cut which reduces or eliminates pull out in the core. Vortex Tool Company recommends a 5600 series with a single edge upcut spiral. Good results will be achieved at a chip load of 0.016 to 0.018”. Run your tools at 14,000 rpm’s and feed speeds between 5700 and 6500 mm/min or 19 to 21 feet per minute.

Can PVC trim be used with fiber cement siding?

2011-12-01T09:17:00.000-08:00

Yes. Most of today’s fiber cement trims are heavy, difficult to work with and tend to absorb too much moisture. PVC trim is ideal for use with fiber cement sidings since it will not absorb moisture, can be used in direct contact with masonry and concrete, and is lightweight.

What type of tools do I need when working with PVC Trim?

2011-12-01T09:14:00.002-08:00

PVC Trim is easier to work with than wood, requiring no special tools. Since PVC Trim is a more consistent and predictable material you can nail, cut, rout, mould or glue it in the same fashion you would treat wood. With PVC trim, you don’t have to deal with grain, knots, warping or other natural inconsistencies in wood that can negatively impact its workability.

Recommendations on Bonding Trim

2011-12-01T09:14:00.000-08:00

When bonding PVC trim to itself or another PVC material, most standard PVC pipe cements perform well especially those that are solvent based. Care should be taken to assure the substrates are clean and dry. Also, cements with moderate to slow setup time are preferred. When bonding PVC trim sheets to themselves to obtain a thicker product, additional adhesive cure time will be required due to the impervious nature of trimboard. PVC TrimWelder for laminating is an ideal product for this application. Although most cyanoacrylates (super glues) are excellent for bonding a trim product to itself, they are prone to breakdown when subjected to a moist environment. Adhesive and sealant formulations vary with each manufacturer. Performance is dependent upon the application. Therefore, each adhesive and sealant should be tested on a small sample of trim to determine compatibility before being placed into use.

Click here to read more information on bonding.

Painting PVC Trimboard

2011-12-01T09:12:00.000-08:00

PVC trim does not require painting for protection. If painting is preferred, follow the guidelines below.

IMPORTANT - Use 100% acrylic latex or 100% acrylic latex with urethane additive paint with a light reflective value (LRV) equal to or greater than 55 units. Failure to follow this requirement could void a product warranty.
Consult Sherwin Williams or Blue River Coating in applications where the paint color has an LRV value less than 55 units.
Paint life is longer when applied to PVC trim versus adhering to wood due to the absence of moisture in trim.
To obtain adequate paint adhesion, be sure the surface of the trimboard is clean, dry and free of dirt, loose or peeling paint, mildew, chalk, grease and any other surface contaminants before paint applications.
Paint can take up to 30 days to fully cure depending on outside temperatures and humidity conditions.
Follow the paint manufacturer’s surface preparation and application recommendations.

What are the environmental attributes of PVC trim?

2011-12-01T09:10:00.000-08:00

All vinyl scrap generated during our process is recycled back into the finished product.

Cellular PVC is a “Durable” product that conserves materials and eliminates pollution associated with manufacturing shorter life alternative products.

Cellular PVC trim does not require the use of paint, stain, or harsh cleansers. Wood trims, on the other hand, do require the use of these products on a regular basis.

Cellular PVC is lighter to transport than most other building products, reducing the amount of fuel and other resources used for such transportation.

Cellular PVC saves the environment, since it is a replacement for wood trim; thus, it helps prevent deforestation.

The PVC resin used to produce cellular PVC is made from a combination of natural gas, which is a fossil fuel and 57% salt. This is why it is called poly vinyl chloride, since chlorine is 57% of the base component. Most other plastics are 100% hydro-carbon based.

The PVC resin used to produce cellular PVC uses less energy in manufacturing than any other plastic material.

Why is PVC trim an ideal replacement for wood trim?

2011-12-01T09:08:00.000-08:00

PVC trim is the preferred plastic material for the building construction industry. It is strong and durable, but lightweight and easy to install. It is non-toxic, recyclable, and self-extinguishing. It will not rot, warp, delaminate, cup or twist. It is also impervious to salts, insects and many chemicals, including some acids.

How to Install Brick Mould

2011-12-01T09:07:00.000-08:00

PVC brick mould is impervious to moisture, insects and rot, as well, as mould and mildew. Brick mould is capstocked with a durable PVC compound specially formulated to resist all types of weather and UV exposure.

Using a fine tooth saw or finishing grade carbide saw blade, miter the brick mould to fit the opening.
Measure the top of the brick mould to overlap the jamb material by 1/2”. This will allow for a 1/8” to 1/4” reveal around the jamb. Reveal should be on both top and sides.
Cut a 45° angle on the brick mould ends, butt or angle joint middle seam if needed.*Note: reveal may vary depending onsiding, siding J channel, brick or block installation.
Be sure the moulding pieces are fairly tight and with minimum gaps. Properly seal the moulding pieces to the brick.
When nailing, use 10d nails or 3” galvanized finishing nails. Space nails 8” to 10” a part.
After applying the product, you should seal around the brick mould where it meets the siding material. This will prevent moisture from penetrating under the framing material.
When installing a storm door or combination door, be sure the brick mould is firmly attached before installing the combination door.

Brick mould is just as easy to cut as wood and, if needed, can be shaved easily to fit into a reduced height space under a window.

Click here to download a PDF version.

How to clean PVC Trim

2011-12-01T09:05:00.001-08:00

PVC trimboard can get dirty while builders are working with the products. Some builders don't know what to use to remove the finger marks after installing the trim.

You can try cleaning with a mild detergent and water.
Another alternative is to use Soft Scrub®, may be applied with a nylon brush.
Mild household cleaners also work like Clorox-Cleanup, Spic and Span or Fantastik.
For stubborn stains, use Clorox Outdoors, Denatured Alcohol, Bleach or Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.

Remember to test any cleaner on an inconspicuous area before full use.

How do you recommend PVC trim be secured to masonry?

2011-12-01T09:04:00.000-08:00

We recommend the masonry be troweled with an adhesive first to provide a level/plumb surface to accept the board/sheet and the trim secured with Tapcon masonry fasteners.

How to install a one piece column wrap

2011-12-01T09:03:00.000-08:00

Install furring strips to the structural column at the top, middle and bottom making sure the outside dimension of the furring strips are no larger than the inside dimensions of the column wrap.
Apply Extreme Adhesive PVc TrimWelder or laminating grade adhesive to the inside of the two (2) bend line joints.
Once the column wrap joints have cured, set the wrap around the structural post and apply adhesive to the other two joints pushing the friction fit joint together. If necessary hold together with pin nails or velcro strap.
Remove the joint tape no more than 12 hours after bonding the last joint. Leaving the tape on the column wrap and exposed to the UV rays of the sun will make it difficult to remove and could leave adhesive residue on the face of the wrap.
Secure the wrap to the furring strips with nails or screws.

Versatex Expands Free Library of Information-Rich BIM (Building Information Modeling) Objects

2011-12-01T09:00:00.000-08:00

Access to this emerging technology saves specifiers loads of time on the front end, and gives contractors and homeowners links for digital owner’s manuals for maintenance.

A free library of BIM (Building Information Modeling) objects developed by ARCAT BIM experts for Versatex can be freely downloaded from the ARCAT website, and customized for residential or commercial projects. These 3D CAD objects are packed with all the data architects and contractors need, including links to installation and owner’s manuals.

ARCAT, a major publisher of building product information, has developed and posted on their sit data-rich AutoDesk® Revit® BIM objects for Versatex. Anyone can use these objects at no charge. In addition to creating accurate graphics, ARCAT and Versatex have added appropriate product data to each object, saving architects and engineers a significant amount of time doing data entry and product research. All of Versatex’s objects, graphics and content are uniform and modifiable for ease of use. In addition to product information, ARCAT has embedded links in the objects to Versatex’s CSI 3-Part specs. The link for the Versatex BIM library is:

http://www.arcat.com/bim/versatex/versatex.shtml?coid=457166

“Specifiers and contractors are driving this emerging technology, and Versatex wants to be a part of this revolutionary way of doing business,” says Rick Kapres, VP of Sales and Marketing.

Rake Application Installation

2011-12-01T08:45:00.000-08:00

Step 1: Install the PVC Frieze board by placing it tight against the wall. Be sure the siding notch is at the bottom with the plowed soffit pocket at the top of the board facing away from the home so it can receive the soffit panel. Be sure the top of the plowed soffit pocket on the frieze board aligns with the bottom of the barge rafter. The barge rafter is the outermost rafter on the end of a gabled roof. These are normally held up by what are called “lookouts” or “strong arms” and are considered the sub-fascia on the gabled end of the house.

Step 2: Fasten the frieze board to the wall studs with #8d stainless steel nails with annular threads and blunt points or trim screws spaced a maximum of 16” on center. Since the Frieze board is fabricated with a 1/2” plowed pocket to accept and support the soffit panel there is no need for an “F” or “J” channel.

Step 3: Before securing the soffit into the plowed slot on the frieze board, make sure the outside edge of the soffit panel projects 7/16” beyond the barge rafter.

Step 4: Place a continuous bead of PVC TrimWelder slow cure into the plowed pocket of the frieze board. Push the solid soffit panel into the plowed pocket on the frieze board, fastening the soffit to the underside of the barge rafter with 4d or 5d stainless steel trim nails or trim screws 12” on center.

Step 5: Once the soffit has been installed, finish the rake by installing the fascia/rake board on top of the barge rafter. Place a continuous bead of PVC TrimWelder adhesive into the plowed pocket on the fascia/rake board aligning the pocket with the projecting edge of the solid soffit panel before fastening it to the face of the barge rafter. To reduce linear movement in the fascia/rake board glue it to the barge rafter with a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails Sub-Floor or Heavy Duty Construction adhesive. PL Adhesives also work well for this application. Fasten the fascia/rake to the barge rafter with 8d stainless steel nails or trim screws spaced a maximum 16” on center.

Step 6: The top edge of the fascia can be flashed with a piece of undersill trim or hidden behind a drip edge or other roof edge flashing.

Step 7: We recommend the use of a “T” mould (see drawing below) at the butt joints between two soffit panels. This not only improves the overall aesthetics of the finished system but also provides a pocket for controlling any expansion or contraction of the soffit board.

Eave Application Installation

2011-12-01T08:34:00.000-08:00

Step 1: Fit your soffit panel to the overhang making sure the outside edge of the soffit projects 7/16” beyond the sub-fascia. Position the slotted vents towards the outside of the eave for optimal air flow. Be sure all soffit edges are supported by framing.

Step 2: Secure the soffit to the underside of the sub-fascia and to the framing member along the other edge of the soffit panel at the frieze. Fasteners should be 4d or 5d stainless steel nails or trim screws spaced 12” on center at all panel edges and at all intermediate supports. Reduce spacing to 6” on center if soffit is not supported by fascia and frieze.

Step 3: We recommends the use of a “T” mould (see drawing below) at the butt joints between two soffit panels and at all mitered soffit corners. This not only improves the overall aesthetics of the finished system but also provides a pocket for controlling any expansion or contraction of the soffit board.

Step 4: Use a Standard Stealth Trimboard for the frieze board making sure the long flat edge of the trim butts tight against the soffit panel with the siding pocket on the Stealth trim at the bottom and against the exterior wall for accepting siding.

Step 5: Fasten the frieze board to the wall studs with #8d stainless steel nails with annular threads and blunt points or trim screws spaced a maximum of 16” on center.

Step 6: Install the fascia board on top of the sub-fascia. Place a continuous bead of PVC TrimWelder adhesive into the plowed pocket on the fascia board aligning the pocket with the projecting edge of the vented soffit panel before fastening it to the face of the sub-fascia. To reduce linear movement in the fascia board glue it to the sub-fascia with a construction adhesive like Liquid Nails Sub-Floor or Heavy Duty Construction adhesive. PL Adhesives also work well for this application. Fasten the fascia to the sub-fascia with 8d stainless steel nails or trim screws spaced a maximum 16” on center.

Step 7: The top edge of the fascia can be flashed with a piece of undersill trim or hidden behind a drip edge or other roof edge flashing.

Fascia/ Soffit Installation

2011-12-01T08:31:00.000-08:00

First, remove aluminum wrap.

Check fascia board for rotting.

If bad, remove and install cellular PVC trimboard or new VERSATEX Stealth Fascia board with 1/2" plowed slot for existing soffit.

This eliminates the need for an "F" channel and aluminum trim coil.

Using Cortex Screws to Apply PVC Trim

2011-12-01T08:28:00.000-08:00

Using a drill as outlined on the left and the Cortex Setting Tool, drive the Cortex fastener to the preset level on the PVC trim.
Continuously drive the fastener at one speed until the setting tool disengages on its own.
Do not stop and start the drive as this may affect the finished appearance. It is important that the Cortex screw is driven perpendicular to the PVC trim with the correct number of screws per trim piece.

The setting of the Cortex screw creates a cored-out hole in the trim surface.

Place the Cortex Engineered Plug into the appropriate hole in the trim surface (smooth or textured) side up.
Gently tap the plug into the cored-out hole until the plug is flush with the trim surface.

Pergola Installation Tips

2011-12-01T08:25:00.000-08:00

Span 10' to 16' with confidence by sandwiching aluminum tubing within a routed slot inside two 5/4 by 10" PVC boards.

Suggestions when Heat Bending / Forming PVC Trimboard

2011-12-01T08:21:00.000-08:00

PVC Trimboard can be heat formed in to an assortment of shapes in a fraction of the time it takes to curve natural wood products. Heat forming is easy, using conventional techniques such as heat bending, pressure forming or vacuum forming. Constructing the same shape in natural wood products requires sanding and finishing, and takes a longer period of time. Achieving a near perfect bend radius with PVC trimboards can be accomplished by utilizing convectional air circulating ovens, strip heaters, heating blankets, radiant heaters or calrods. Heat guns can be used only on small areas where appearance and uniformity may be compromised.

Heating times and temperatures should be controlled to prevent the surface temperature of the product from exceeding 300°F for more than ten (10) minutes.
Heat should be applied on both sides of the product to assure uniform distribution of heat and to avoid product distortion.
The edges of the product are most susceptible to rapid heat loss, so edge heating is critical.
Heating times are generally about three (3) minutes per 1/4” of product thickness.
Heat should be applied evenly and consistently along the product length until it becomes flexible and easy to form.
Once the trimboard has reached a workable temperature, the heat can be removed from the board and the product can be bent or formed to the desired shape using any type of fixture.

Overheating of the trim product should be avoided. Rough texture of the surface and discoloration or yellowing of the product are results of overheating. Trimboard's textured appearance will fade away when thermoforming. Cooling can be accomplished through normal air circulation or more rapidly by using fans or compressed air. Special care should be taken when handling hot material. To prevent serious burns, special gloves and protective clothing should be worn.

If you would like to follow step by step on how to bend PVC trim click here to download.

How Cellular PVC Trim is Different than Wood

2011-12-01T08:19:00.000-08:00

PVC trim resists all weathering.
PVC trim resists mold and mildew growth.
PVC won’t rot, check, splinter, or warp.
There are no knots or sap pockets in PVC trim.
PVC trim resists insects.
PVC trim does not require painting but can be painted custom colors.
PVC trim eliminates the need for flashing to protect trim pieces from moisture absorption.
PVC trim allows for direct masonry and ground contact.
PVC trim uses PVC urethane or other polymeric adhesive when joining.

Tips and Tricks for the Builder/Contractor When Bonding PVC to PVC

2011-12-01T08:17:00.000-08:00

Apply the adhesive to only one part in the middle of the area to be bonded.

WHY? You want the adhesive to flow across the surface and “wet” both sides to get the best bond.

Use enough adhesive to allow some sqeeze-out when clamped or joined.

WHY? This makes sure that you have 100% adhesive coverage.

Clamp, weight, nail, tape, or screw the pieces in place.

WHY? To prevent movement before the adhesive sets or cures.

Don’t disturb the joint for at least 45 to 90 minutes after the “work life”.

WHY? The adhesive forms chemical and molecular bonds as it cures. If these are disturbed while forming, the bond will be weak!

Clean up any excess within a few minutes

WHY? The adhesive has begun the chemical reaction known as “curing” and will harden quickly and require sanding or sawing to remove.

For small repairs or bonds, squeeze a small amount of adhesive onto a clean scrap, mix with a plastic knife and apply.

WHY? You save the price of a mixer!

Helpful ways on how to install PVC skirtboard

2011-12-01T08:13:00.000-08:00

The 8” Stealth Skirtboard was designed and developed to provide the builder/contractor the minimum 6” clearance requirement to the finished grade on the exterior of the building when installing any fiber cement or wood composite siding.

Installation

Before installing your Stealth Skirtboard, be sure the walls of the house are properly prepared to accept it.
They should be true and plumb and covered with some brand of house wrap.
Flash around the base of the wall 10½” up from the sill plate using roofing felt, rubber, or trim coil (aluminum/vinyl).
Fasten the Stealth Skirtboard the same way you would a Trimboard. Since the Skirtboard is installed so close to grade and prone to exposure to moisture stainless steel fasteners designed for wood trim or siding are preferred.
Fasteners with thin shanks, blunt points, an full round heads are recommended.
The fastener must be long enough to penetrate the substrate a minimum of 1½”.
Place nails a maximum of 16” on center.
Install the siding above the Stealth Skirtboard in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation guidelines.

Click here it download a PDF version.

Tips on how to install Versatex beadboard

2011-12-01T08:09:00.000-08:00

Cutting
VERSATEX can be cut using standard woodworking tools. Conventional carbide tipped blades designed for cutting wood are recommended. Avoid using fine tooth metal-cutting blades.

Fastening

VERSATEX beadboard can be hand or power nailed the same as wood. In cold temperatures below 40°F, pre drilling may be required to prevent splitting or cracking of the tongue. Blind nailing is acceptable for single pieces up to eighteen (18) feet in length. For runs in excess of eighteen (18) feet face nailing or separating each run of beadboard with a “T” or “H” mullion is preferred. A “T” or “H” mullion creates an excellent break between the runs of beadboard while providing a pocket that allows for any expansion or contraction. A simple method of creating a “T” to separate long runs of beadboard is to take a piece of trimboard at least 5/8” thick at a minimum width of 2” and cut a 1/2” deep by 1/2” wide groove down both sides of the board. When nailing, nails should be at least 11/2” long so that each fastener penetrates the substrate a minimum of one (1”) inch. The stronger the shank of the nail, the more it will resist movement due to thermal expansion and contraction. VERSATEX beadboard should be nailed a maximum of 12” on center along its length with fasteners at least 2” or less from the end of each board.

Installation

Since VERSATEX Cellular PVC beadboard is a thermoplastic materialit will expand and contract along its length by as much as 3/16” in 18’. In an effort to mechanically control this movement the following guidelines should be followed:

To prevent buckling or binding, leave a minimum of ¼” to ½” gap between the edge of the beadboard and any solid substrate. Use a piece of trim or moulding to cover this gap.

For runs longer than 18’, cut a bevel or shiplap joint into the end of the board, leave a 1/8” gap when installing on a day where temperatures range from 35°F to 45°F.

For runs in excess of eighteen (18) feet face nailing is recommended. Face nailing allows you to reduce the nail spacing across the width of the beadboard, thus restricting expansion and contraction.

Where possible orient the beadboard in the direction that uses the shortest board length possible. Expansion and contraction of cellular PVC is a function of the products length. The shorter the board length the less expansion and contraction it will display.

Like all VERSATEX cellular PVC products our nominal 4” and 6” beadboards can be painted but do not require painting for protection. A 100% acrylic latex or 100% acrylic latex with a urethane additive should be used to achieve superior coating durability and flexibility. Only light to medium colored paints with a light reflective value of 55 units or greater should be used over VERSATEX. Consult your local paint representative or prefinisher for available heat reflective paints. Be sure these paints have an equivalent LRV of 55 units or greater. Darker acrylic latex colors absorb heat and not only increases expansion and contraction but can cause the temperature to reach or exceed the heat distortion temperature of cellular PVC permanently distorting the product.

Finished results and paint longevity depends upon the amount of paint applied, proper application and the weather/climatic conditions during application. Always follow the paint
manufacturer’s application instructions. Be sure to read and
follow the instructions and warnings on the label.

To check out more information on how to install beadboard click here.